Your post-winter motorcycle checklist: back on the road

Take your bike out of winter storage in three stages: undo the storage preparations and inspect it; start it using your model's procedure; check that it works normally on a short local ride. Finish each stage and deal with any faults before moving on. An engine that starts doesn't tell you whether the tyres and brakes are ready for the road.

This checklist is for a bike that's been put away for a normal winter break. If it's stood for years, been flooded or has an unknown history, get a professional assessment before trying to use it.

Before you press the starter

Read the notes you left during pre-winter preparation. Check everything you need to undo: exhaust or intake covers, disconnected battery leads, charging connections, corrosion treatments and security locks. Account for every item before turning the key.

Look under the bike for fresh stains, then check the wiring and openings you can reach. Investigate a nest, chewed cable or fuel smell before starting. If you can't tell whether an opening is clear, get it inspected. The starter isn't the way to find out.

Check service dates as well as mileage. Maintenance can still be due on a bike that's barely moved. Honda's CB125F owner's manual specifically calls for inspecting scheduled maintenance items after storage. Use your own model's instructions and settings.

Check tyres, brakes and final drive before moving off

Tyres and wheels

Use a gauge to set the correct cold road pressures for the load you'll carry. Check any pressure adjustment you made for storage before riding. Look around the tread and both sidewalls for damage, cracks, objects and changes in shape. Have persistent deformation or unexplained pressure loss assessed. Michelin's motorcycle tyre FAQ explains cold-pressure checks and why a punctured tyre needs professional inspection.

Plenty of tread isn't the whole check. Consider the tyre's age and storage history too, and follow the maker's replacement advice. If you can't safely roll or support the bike to see a hidden area, get help.

Brakes and suspension

Apply each brake while the bike is stationary. It should feel normal and release properly. Check the pad wear indicators, hoses and discs you can see, and look for leaks. Light surface oxidation can happen during storage, but heavy corrosion, pitting, contamination or a sticking brake needs assessment before riding. Don't try a fast stop to clean it up.

Check that the steering moves normally and look over the suspension. A significant fork leak, damaged sliding surface or unexpected movement needs workshop checks. ADAC's start-of-season guidance includes tyres, brakes, fluids and controls in the checks before returning to the road.

Chain, belt or shaft

Follow your model's final-drive instructions. For a chain, look for stiff links, rust and sprocket wear, then check slack with the bike in the specified position and using the right measurement method. Keep the engine off throughout. Never use engine power to turn the rear wheel while cleaning or lubricating the chain. Belts and shafts need different checks. If you're unsure of the method or condition, arrange adjustment or repair.

Battery, fuel and fluids: check your storage notes

Inspect the battery and cables before connecting anything. Follow the battery maker's charging instructions and use equipment suited to its voltage and battery type. Use the bike's manual for refitting, terminal order and securing the leads. Get a swollen, leaking or damaged battery dealt with before use. If it won't crank normally after correct charging, have the battery and charging system tested. Yuasa's battery care guide explains how the battery, starter and alternator work together.

On a petrol bike, check when you added the fuel and how you prepared it. The restart procedure depends on the tank and fuel system. Follow the manual and the instructions for any treatment you used. If you don't know the fuel's history or condition, ask a workshop about checking it and removing old fuel safely. Don't rely on more additive to reverse deterioration. On an electric motorcycle, use the maker's traction-battery and charging checks, and leave the battery enclosure closed.

Check oil, coolant if fitted, brake fluid and any other specified fluids using the right procedure. Some checks happen before starting; others need a particular engine temperature and waiting time. Do each when the manual says. Never open a hot cooling system. If a level is low, fluid has disappeared without explanation or a replacement interval has passed, work out what servicing is needed rather than just topping up. Colour alone doesn't tell you the fluid's condition.

The first start after storage

Move the bike outside before running the engine, away from doors and windows. Opening the garage door isn't enough. Check again that the exhaust and intake are clear, charging equipment is disconnected as instructed and no tools are left on the bike.

Follow the manual's starting procedure, including any steps for returning from storage. Watch the instruments and look for leaks. If it won't start, follow the cranking and waiting limits in the manual; don't keep trying until the battery is flat. Stop and investigate unexplained smoke, rough running, a fuel leak or a critical warning.

If you need workshop help, write down what happened: no dashboard power, a click, slow cranking or normal cranking without starting. Note any warning text and how you stored the fuel and battery. That's more useful than “it won't start”. Stick to those observations if further diagnosis would mean unfamiliar electrical or fuel-system work.

Check which warning lights should go out, and when, on your model. Some stay on until the bike moves; an oil-pressure warning that doesn't clear as specified is a different matter. Don't ride just to see whether an unfamiliar warning disappears. Finish temperature-dependent fluid checks at the point the manual specifies, then check the lights, indicators, horn and both brake-light controls.

Get yourself ready and keep the first ride short

Before using public roads, check that your licence, insurance, registration and any required inspection or seasonal permission are current. Look over your riding gear: a clear visor, working fasteners, gloves and boots in good condition, and a helmet whose fit and condition meet its maker's advice.

Choose a short route you know, with easy ways to head home. Give yourself time to get used to the clutch, throttle, steering and brakes again. Once the stationary checks pass, check for normal response at walking pace in a clear, level area where you're allowed to ride. If you feel rusty, consider a refresher course. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation's training directory is one starting point, alongside accredited training in your country.

Check the whole route and the forecast for the ride home. Early sunshine doesn't clear away grit, potholes or possible ice. Road surfaces can be colder than the air, as the Met Office explains in its frost and ice guide. Check official warnings and road information, and postpone if conditions aren't suitable. Our route-weather guide helps with the forecast checks while you're parked.

After the short ride, check again for leaks, warnings and loose fittings without touching hot parts. Recheck tyre pressures when cold. Write down anything you need to sort before a longer trip, then use the everyday pre-ride checklist for later rides.

Your progress is saved separately from the winter-storage checklist in the same browser. Use Print / save PDF to keep a copy with your service notes. Reset it next time you take the bike out of storage; old ticks record old checks.